CNC Plasma Table & Fiber Laser FAQ

A CNC plasma table is a computer-controlled machine that moves a plasma torch over a sheet of metal to cut out shapes from a digital drawing. You design a part on a computer, the table follows the path, and the plasma arc cuts it out cleanly and repeatably.

It's the most affordable way to cut steel, stainless and aluminum parts in a home or small shop: brackets, gussets, signs, metal art, fire pits, truck and off-road parts, and production parts.

A complete setup has four pieces:

• The table (frame, gantry and motors)
• A plasma cutter with a machine torch
• A computer running the control software
• An air compressor

Every GFHQ plasma table can be ordered with the plasma cutter and a pre-programmed computer, so you get everything in one order. Shop plasma tables

Buy a plasma table if you mainly cut mild steel 1/8" and thicker and want the lowest cost per part. Buy a fiber laser if you need tight tolerances, small holes, crisp detail and very clean edges, especially on thin steel, stainless and aluminum.

• Plasma: lower machine cost (GFHQ plasma tables start at $4,999.99), cuts thick plate easily, wider kerf (about 0.06"), small edge bevel.
• Fiber laser: higher machine cost (GFHQ fiber lasers start at $15,499.99), very narrow kerf, near-square edges, small holes and fine text, very fast on thin sheet.

Many shops start with plasma and add a laser when their work needs more precision or volume. Not sure? Book a free sales call and we'll match the machine to your parts.

A complete hobby-to-small-shop CNC plasma setup typically costs $6,000 to $15,000, and industrial tables cost much more. At Garage Fab HQ, plasma tables start at $4,999.99 and every price is listed on the site.

What goes into the total:

• The table: START kits from $4,999.99, welded CORE tables from $7,999.99, PRO tables from $13,499.99
• A plasma cutter: about $1,500 to $6,500 depending on brand and amperage
• A computer: use your own, or add a pre-programmed laptop or PC kit
• An air compressor and dryer if you don't already have one
• Shipping or delivery, priced from your ZIP code in the cart (pickup in Las Vegas is free)

You can build your exact machine on any product page and see the full price before checkout. Compare START, CORE and PRO

Fiber laser sheet cutters for small and mid-size shops usually cost $15,000 to $60,000+, depending on bed size, laser power and build quality. GFHQ fiber laser tables start at $15,499.99, and tube lasers start at $19,999.99.

Price is driven mostly by:

• Laser power: 1.5 kW, 2 kW or 3 kW. More power means thicker and faster cuts.
• Bed size: from 4' x 4' up to 6' x 12'
• Frame and motion: welded frames, servos and linear rails cost more but hold accuracy at speed

Also budget for assist gas (oxygen, nitrogen or air), fume extraction and power to the machine. Shop fiber lasers

Pick a table that fits the largest sheet you want to load: a 4' x 4' table handles quarter sheets, while a 4' x 8' or 5' x 10' table takes full sheets with no pre-cutting. Then check that it fits your shop with room to walk around it.

Quick guide:

• 3' x 3' to 4' x 4': signs, art, brackets, small parts, tight garages
• 4' x 8': the most popular size. Loads a full 4' x 8' sheet.
• 5' x 10' and 6' x 12': production shops buying full 5' x 10' plate

Leave about 3 feet around the table for loading and service. GFHQ START tables come in 8 sizes from 3' x 3' to 5' x 10', and CORE and PRO in 6 sizes from 4' x 4' to 6' x 12'.

Yes. A CNC plasma table is one of the most common ways to start a metal fabrication side business, because steel is cheap and cut parts sell for many times their material cost.

Popular money-makers:

• Custom metal signs, house numbers and wall art
• Truck, Jeep and off-road brackets, bumpers and skid plates
• Fire pits, BBQ and smoker parts
• Gussets, tabs and brackets for welders and fabricators
• Cut-to-order parts for local shops, farms and contractors

Most owners start with their own projects and local word of mouth, then sell online. The faster you can turn a drawing into a part, the faster the machine pays for itself.

START is a bolt-together kit for home shops and first CNC machines. CORE is a fully welded table for shops cutting every day. PRO adds linear rails and servo motors on all axes for production work.

• START: you assemble it with our manual and videos. Rack and pinion drive, geared steppers. Plasma from $4,999.99.
• CORE: welded 11-gauge tube frame, closed-loop steppers. Plasma, fiber laser and tube laser. Plasma from $7,999.99.
• PRO: welded frame, linear rails and precision servos. Plasma from $13,499.99.

See the full side-by-side comparison

How thick a plasma table can cut depends on the plasma cutter, not the table. As a rule of thumb, a 45-amp cutter cleanly cuts mild steel up to about 1/2", a 65-amp up to about 3/4", and an 85-amp up to about 1".

Two numbers matter:

• Pierce capacity: the thickest plate the torch can pierce from the middle of a sheet. On a CNC table this is your real everyday limit, and it's lower than the cut rating.
• Edge start: starting the cut from the edge of the plate lets you cut thicker than the pierce limit.

GFHQ tables are built to hold full plate, so choose the cutter for the thickest material you'll cut most often, not the thickest you'll ever cut. Compare plasma cutters

Match the plasma cutter to the material you cut most. A 45-amp unit suits thin to 3/8" steel, a 65-amp is the best all-around choice for 1/4" to 5/8", and an 85-amp is for shops cutting 1/2" and thicker every day.

What to look for in a CNC plasma cutter:

• A machine torch (straight torch) rather than a hand torch
• A CNC interface for start/stop and a voltage divider so the table can read arc voltage for torch height control
• A duty cycle high enough for long cuts
• Consumables you can buy easily

Every Everlast and Hypertherm cutter we sell comes with the GFHQ CNC Com Cable, so it plugs into your table with no wiring. Shop plasma cutters

Usually, yes. Most plasma cutters with a CNC port (start/stop and a divided arc voltage output) and a machine torch will run on a GFHQ table. Send us the make and model before you order and we'll confirm.

Cutters without a CNC port can sometimes be adapted, but you lose features like automatic torch height control, and hand torches are harder to mount square. If yours isn't a good fit, we'll tell you honestly and suggest an option.

Email tech@garagefabhq.com with your plasma cutter model.

Both work well on a GFHQ table. Hypertherm is the industry benchmark for cut quality, consumable life and support. Everlast gives you more amps for the money.

• Choose Hypertherm (Powermax SYNC) if you cut every day, sell parts, or want the cleanest cuts and longest consumable life.
• Choose Everlast (PowerPlasma) if you're starting out, cutting for your own projects, or want to keep the total machine price down.

Either way, the cutter arrives with our CNC Com Cable and is set up to talk to your table. Compare plasma cutters

A plasma table cuts any electrically conductive metal: mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, brass and galvanized steel. It cannot cut wood, plastic, glass or stone, because plasma needs the material to conduct electricity.

Tips by material:

• Mild steel: the easiest and cleanest material to cut with air plasma
• Stainless: cuts well. Expect a darker edge.
• Aluminum: cuts well, but read our safety note on cutting aluminum over a water table
• Galvanized: cuts fine, but zinc fumes are toxic. Ventilate well.

A water table is cheaper, quieter and simpler, and it traps smoke and sparks in water. A downdraft table pulls smoke down through the slats with a fan, keeps parts dry and avoids rust, but needs a dust collector or fume extractor.

• Water table (water pan): lowest cost, very effective at catching smoke, dust and sparks. Parts come out wet and the water needs a rust inhibitor and occasional cleaning.
• Downdraft: dry cutting, no rust, better for cutting aluminum, but needs a properly sized extraction fan and ducting.

GFHQ START tables use a water pan. CORE and PRO plasma tables come in either a water pan or a downdraft version.

Torch height control automatically keeps the torch at the correct distance from the metal while cutting, by watching arc voltage. You need it for clean cuts on anything bigger than small parts, because steel sheets are never perfectly flat and warp as they heat up.

Without THC, the torch drifts too close (dragging and damaging consumables) or too far (dross and bevel). GFHQ plasma tables include THC plus ohmic sensing and automatic touch-off: the torch finds the top of the plate before every pierce, then holds cut height during the cut.

On a raised gantry table, the gantry rides on rails above the cutting area. On a flat top table, the cutting surface is level with the top of the frame, so you can slide full sheets on from any side.

• Raised gantry: lower cost and a compact footprint. Load material from the front.
• Flat top: easier loading of big or heavy sheets, and the top doubles as a work surface.

GFHQ START tables come in both styles (flat top is +$750). CORE and PRO tables are flat top.

Yes, but only with planning. You can cut a large part in sections and weld or bolt them together, or index the sheet: cut part of the drawing, slide the sheet over, re-zero, and cut the rest.

Indexing works best on simple shapes and needs careful alignment. If you often cut parts bigger than your bed, it's usually cheaper in time and scrap to buy the next table size up.

A 1.5 kW fiber laser cuts mild steel up to about 1/2" (with oxygen), stainless up to about 1/4" and aluminum up to about 5/32". A 3 kW laser roughly doubles those numbers and cuts thin sheet much faster.

Typical maximums:

• 1.5 kW: mild steel ~1/2", stainless ~1/4", aluminum ~5/32"
• 2 kW: mild steel ~5/8", stainless ~5/16", aluminum ~1/4"
• 3 kW: mild steel ~3/4", stainless ~1/2", aluminum ~5/16"

Plan your everyday work at about 60–70% of the maximum: that's where cuts are fast and edges stay clean. GFHQ PRO fiber lasers come with 1.5 kW, with 2 kW and 3 kW upgrades.

1.5 kW is plenty for most shops cutting 16 gauge to 1/4" steel and thin stainless. Choose 2 kW if you regularly cut 3/8" and thicker steel or want more speed. Choose 3 kW for production work, thicker stainless and aluminum, or nitrogen cutting at higher speeds.

More power doesn't just cut thicker. It also cuts thin material much faster, which matters when you're paying for time or running parts all day. If you're between two sizes, list the materials and thicknesses you cut most and ask us. We'll tell you where the extra power pays off.

Not well. Fiber lasers are made for metal. Their wavelength is absorbed by metals but passes through or scorches wood, acrylic and most plastics. For wood, acrylic, leather and fabric you want a CO2 laser, or for wood and plastics a CNC router.

A fiber laser cuts mild steel, stainless, aluminum, brass, copper and galvanized steel. GFHQ also builds CNC router tables for wood and plastic.

Fiber lasers use an assist gas: oxygen for mild steel, nitrogen for stainless and aluminum, or clean dry compressed air for low-cost cutting of thinner material.

• Oxygen: cuts thick mild steel efficiently at low pressure. Leaves a thin oxide layer on the edge.
• Nitrogen: bright, oxide-free edges that are ready to weld or paint. Uses high pressure and more gas, so it costs more to run.
• Compressed air: the cheapest option for thin to medium sheet. Needs a high-pressure compressor with good drying and filtering.

Most shops keep oxygen and either nitrogen or a high-pressure air system on hand.

A tube laser is a fiber laser that cuts round, square and rectangular tube and pipe. It rotates the tube in a chuck while the laser cuts holes, slots, miters, notches and tab-and-slot joints, all in one pass and ready to weld.

Tube lasers replace a lot of sawing, drilling, notching and layout work, which makes them popular for chassis, roll cages, racks, furniture and structural parts. GFHQ tube lasers start at $19,999.99 (CORE, 6 ft, round tube up to 4") and $29,999.99 (PRO, 12 ft, round, square and rectangular up to 6").

Yes, with the right setup. A fiber laser is a Class 4 laser with an invisible beam that can injure eyes, even from a reflection, so you need proper enclosure or shielding, the correct laser safety glasses and fume extraction.

Laser shop basics:

• Wear laser safety glasses rated for the fiber wavelength (1064 nm), not plasma or welding shades
• Keep the cutting area shielded and keep people out of the beam path
• Use fume extraction, especially on galvanized and coated metals
• Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and never leave it cutting unattended

We'll go over safe setup with you before your laser ships.

Yes. The laser source and cutting head are water-cooled, and a chiller keeps them at a stable temperature. Running without proper cooling can damage the laser.

Use distilled or deionized water (with antifreeze if your shop can freeze), keep the chiller filters clean, and don't let the chiller and machine sit in a hot, dusty spot.

You need three kinds of software: a design program (CAD) to draw the part, a CAM program to turn the drawing into toolpaths, and the control software that runs the table. Many programs combine CAD and CAM.

• CAD (design): Fusion, Inkscape, Adobe Illustrator, SolidWorks, or any program that exports DXF or SVG
• CAM (toolpaths): sets the cut order, lead-ins, kerf and speeds, then creates G-code
• Control: GFHQ plasma tables run on the MyPlasm CNC controller

Order a pre-programmed laptop or PC kit and the control software arrives installed and set up for your table. Or use your own PC with the software USB.

No. Your CAM software writes the G-code for you. You draw or import a design, choose the material and thickness, and the software creates the toolpath. You just load the file, set your zero and press start.

Knowing a few basics, like how to jog the machine, set zero and restart a cut, makes you faster, and our setup videos and tech support walk you through them.

DXF is the standard file for plasma and laser cutting, and SVG works in most programs too. Images like JPG and PNG must be traced into vector lines first.

• DXF: best for parts, brackets and anything with real dimensions
• SVG: common for signs, art and downloaded designs
• JPG/PNG: convert to vectors with a tracing tool in Inkscape, Illustrator or your CAM software

Tip: before you cut, make sure every shape is a closed outline and remove duplicate lines.

You can draw your own, buy ready-to-cut DXF files from online design shops and marketplaces, or download free files. Always check the license before selling parts made from someone else's design.

Our Design Lab (coming soon) will have files, templates and design tips made for GFHQ machines, and the Shop Talk forum will let owners share designs and settings.

The table electronics run on a standard 120V outlet. The plasma cutter usually needs a 240V single-phase circuit, and its breaker size depends on the cutter's amperage. Your air compressor may need its own 240V circuit too.

• Table and computer: 120V
• 45 to 65-amp plasma cutters: typically a 240V, 30 to 50-amp circuit
• 85-amp cutters: a larger 240V circuit (check the cutter's manual)

Have an electrician confirm your panel can handle the cutter and compressor running at the same time.

Most 45 to 85-amp plasma cutters need about 5 to 7 SCFM at 90 to 120 PSI of clean, dry air. A 60 to 80-gallon, 240V compressor with an air dryer and filter is a solid setup for a CNC table.

Dry air matters more than people expect. Water and oil in the line burn up consumables fast and ruin cut quality. Add a water separator and filter at the cutter, and consider a refrigerated or desiccant dryer if you live somewhere humid.

Plan for the table's footprint plus about 3 feet of clearance on the loading sides, and room for the computer, plasma cutter and compressor. A 4' x 8' plasma table typically needs about a 10' x 14' area.

Also think about:

• Material handling: how you'll get full sheets onto the table
• Ventilation: where smoke and fumes will go
• Floor: a solid, level concrete floor
• Delivery: door width and access for unloading

Fiber lasers also need space for the chiller, gas cylinders or air system, and fume extraction.

Plasma cutting is safe with basic precautions: eye protection, ventilation, fire safety and electrical safety.

• Eyes: shade 5 to 8 safety glasses or a face shield when watching the arc
• Clothing: cotton or leather, no synthetics. Gloves when handling parts.
• Fumes: cut in a ventilated area. A water table or downdraft helps a lot. Never cut galvanized or coated metal without ventilation.
• Fire: clear flammables from the area and keep an extinguisher nearby
• Hearing: plasma is loud on thick material, so wear ear protection for long jobs

Freshly cut parts are hot. Use pliers or gloves.

Cutting aluminum over a water table can release hydrogen gas that collects under the plate and can ignite with a loud pop. Keep aluminum cutting short, keep the water moving or lowered, and never let gas build up under large plates.

Safer practices:

• Clean the water table before cutting aluminum, and don't mix aluminum and steel dross
• Raise the plate or lower the water level so gas can escape
• Stir or agitate the water between jobs
• For regular aluminum work, a downdraft table is the better choice

A well-built CNC plasma table typically holds part dimensions within about ±0.01" to ±0.02". Plasma cut quality, kerf and bevel usually limit accuracy more than the table does.

Things that affect real-world accuracy:

• Correct kerf compensation in your CAM software
• Cutting speed and amperage matched to the material
• Fresh consumables and dry air
• Heat warping on long, thin parts

If you need tighter tolerances, very small holes or square edges, a fiber laser is the better tool.

Dross is almost always a speed problem. Fluffy, easy-to-remove dross means you're cutting too slow. Hard, rolled-over dross that's tough to chip off means you're cutting too fast. Fix the speed first, then check amperage and torch height.

Checklist:

• Use the cut chart speed for your cutter, amperage and thickness
• Replace worn nozzles and electrodes
• Check that cut height is correct and THC is working
• Make sure the air is dry and at the right pressure
• Hot plate makes more dross. Let it cool between big jobs.

Some bevel is normal with air plasma, but heavy bevel usually comes from torch height, worn consumables, cutting speed or cut direction.

• Cut direction: the square side of a plasma cut is on the right of the torch's travel. Cut outside edges clockwise and holes counter-clockwise (your CAM software can set this).
• Torch height: too high gives more bevel. Check cut height and THC.
• Consumables: an oval or worn nozzle causes bevel on one side.
• Torch square: make sure the torch is square to the table.

The usual rule is that a plasma hole should be no smaller than the material is thick (a 1:1 ratio), and about 1.5 times the thickness for cleaner, rounder holes. For example, aim for holes 3/8" or larger in 3/8" plate.

For bolt holes that need to be exact, cut them slightly undersize and finish with a drill, or use a fiber laser, which can cut much smaller, cleaner holes.

Most no-fire problems come down to air pressure, worn or loose consumables, a bad work clamp connection or a CNC signal issue.

Check in this order:

• Air on and at the right pressure
• Consumables installed correctly and not worn out, retaining cap snug
• Work clamp on clean, bare metal or the table slats
• Plasma cutter set to CNC/remote mode and the CNC cable seated at both ends
• The plasma cutter's own fault lights or error codes

Still stuck? Email tech@garagefabhq.com or book live tech support.

Plasma electrodes and nozzles usually last from a few hundred to over a thousand pierces, depending on the cutter, amperage, air quality and how you cut. Pierces wear consumables faster than cutting time does.

Make them last longer:

• Use clean, dry air
• Pierce at the correct height and let the pierce delay finish
• Avoid running off the edge of the plate
• Replace the electrode and nozzle together
• Use genuine or quality consumables for your cutter

Signs it's time to change: wider kerf, more dross, more bevel or trouble starting the arc.

Weekly: clean dross and slag from the slats and water pan, wipe down the rails and gear racks, and drain the compressor and air filters. Monthly: check belts or gears, wheels, bolts and torch alignment.

Also:

• Replace or flip slats as they wear
• Keep rust inhibitor in the water table and change the water when it gets heavy with sludge
• Keep the electronics enclosure closed and free of dust
• Back up your settings and cut files

Fiber lasers have few wear parts: the cutting nozzle, the ceramic ring that holds it, and the protective lens (window) that shields the focusing optics. Plus assist gas and chiller water.

• Nozzles: replace when the opening is damaged or out of round
• Protective lens: inspect daily and replace when spattered or pitted
• Ceramic ring: replace if cracked
• Gas and power: your main running costs

Fiber lasers need far less maintenance than CO2 lasers: there are no mirrors to align and no gas tube to replace.

Yes. A rust inhibitor added to the water protects the slats, pan and the bottom of your parts from rust, and helps keep the water from going stagnant.

Mix it to the label's ratio, top off with treated water as it evaporates, and clean out sludge regularly. Don't add anything flammable to the water.

Only START tables. START is a bolt-together kit that you assemble with our manual and videos. CORE and PRO machines are fully welded and arrive assembled.

START kits ship unassembled. If you pick up in Las Vegas, you can add pre-assembly and testing for $749.99.

GFHQ machines are designed and built in our Las Vegas, Nevada shop. START kits ship crated by freight. CORE and PRO machines are delivered on our own truck, and pickup at our shop is always free.

Shipping is priced from your ZIP code right on the machine page, and the price is added to your cart before checkout. See shipping prices and options

Every GFHQ machine has a 5-year warranty on the frame and mechanical components, and a 90-day warranty on electronics, wiring and computers. Extended 1, 2 and 3-year electronics coverage is available.

Plasma cutters are covered by their manufacturer's warranty, and we help with any claim. Read the full Refund, Return & Warranty Policy

Every machine comes with setup videos and email support from our tech team. Once it launches, the Shop Talk owners' forum will be there too, and you can book live one-on-one tech sessions when you want a tech on the line with you.

• Free: email tech@garagefabhq.com and the Shop Talk forum (coming soon)
• Live sessions: $120/hr, Monday to Friday, 7 AM to 5 PM Pacific
• After hours, weekends and emergencies: $180/hr, when a tech is available

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